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Daily Blog for
Kate's 50th Birthday Charity Trek
for the Alzheimer's Society

Kate left for China on Friday 6th September 2019 and after two long flights (transfer in Dubai) she arrived in Beijing Saturday afternoon. Communication is difficult due to lack of mobile network, poor wifi, and China's blocking of many websites including Google, but she's been able to send some updates back to the UK. Below are some of the messages and photos she's been able to send.


Saturday 7th September - UK to Beijing:
"Arrived in Beijing. Then a bus transfer for about two hours to the wall at Huangyaguan to stay in a Chinese Hill Fort with courtyards converted into hotel rooms! All fab here. Great meal, good sleep. No views yet as dark when we arrived and now waiting for the sun to rise. We are actually staying in the old fort and the rooms are pretty basic but functional. Looks an exciting place to explore (once we have daylight) lots of maze-like walls. We are having breakfast at 8 then setting off on a 4-5 hour walk to our lunch restaurant then driving back to same hotel for free afternoon explore and 2nd night. The food is amazing... the dishes just kept coming - chilli beef, satay chicken, aubegene, loads of other exciting stuff!"


Sunday 8th September - Huangyaguan Hill Fort:

Above: Just after sunrise on the first morning, the view from the fort

Morning: "Getting on really well and having great chances to chat to different people. They're a fun crowd. I seem to have more kit than the others, but some aren't too far behind whereas some don't really seem to have enough. Wearing 'Team Pink Cat' shirt today - much admired and laughed at!"

Afternoon: "Awesome first trek. 35 degrees c, and four and a half hours. Not much stopping - so glad I did all the training, perfect in terms of steps, terrain, stamina etc. A few people struggled but all made it. Cold shower time then off for lunch. Feeling very proud and also awestruck by actually being here and being on the wall. It's everything I hoped for and more!"

Evening: "Another nice dinner (although with so much Chinese food I am starting to hanker for good old home cooking). A big big day tomorrow. 8am start with 8 hours trek starting with Heavens Ladder and finishing in at a farmer's hut. Alarm set for 6 ish, bags all packed apart from toilettries and charger. Only 25 degrees tomorrow so hopefully will be ok. Going to go to sleep now (to make up for last night ) so I won't be able to chat later and probably won't have wifi tomorrow eve either."


Monday 9th September - Huangyaguan to Mountain Hotel:
"Day 2 5pm. So, at the accomodation now. It's ok, but still a bit basic, however there is a shower so we are happy. Heavens Ladder wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, but generally a steep start to todays trek with lots of very big steps then tricky rocky descent, with a rather fun wooded section and a lot of old wall too, where we were alongside. I stayed at the back today to help the slowpokes (Karen did her stint yesterday) We both agree that we have done our bit and are going to keep at the front from now on (tba the few that are struggling just haven't prepped properly and they really can't cope with the walk, plus their kit and fitness is not that good! I fixed someones rucksack today with my handy kilt pins because it had ripped right across the top - only bought it a few weeks ago and from Lidl!)"

"The worst bit of the day was coming across a swarm of monster mutant wasps - no kidding they were 2 inches long and they were right on the path with no way around. I was with the medic at that point with a couple of others and most of the group were way ahead. At first I thought I really can't do this and I was trying to quickly think what to do eg, get out the turkish towel or something. Anyway, I then thought - be brave, and I just ran through. Shortly after, we got a radio message from the front group warning us about them (a bit late!) and saying how 2 people had been stung... really glad I didn't hear that before! And the stings were seriously vicious - massive red area about 8 inches diameter and major pain and muscle weakness. Feeling brave, tired feet now, but everything holding up fine and today was apparently our hardest day so all is good."


Tuesday 10th September - Mountain Hotel to Jinshanlin:
Morning: "Utterly breathtaking views today (and every day!). Today's ascent was very much like being back home going up Bryneglwys, then we walked along a section of old wall. Some people stayed alongside as it was quite narrow and high - the picture at the top was a special trig point marking the joining of 3 districts."

Afternoon: "We have now arrived in Jinshanling and the scenery looks incredible - high peaky mountains with the wall stringing over the top. I can't wait to get up there! You will have to wait until tomorrow for pics. Tomorrow's another very long day. We are here in Jinshanling for 2 nights and 2 days doing different sections of the wall in this area, so we are taking the opportunity to unpack a little and do some laundry!

"The bugs are still a bit of a thing - some people are getting lots of mosquito bites but I am faring pretty well. We saw another of those monster wasp beasties today but some one managed to kill it. Later, we had an hour or so walk just along a road to the coach so pretty boring and so no photos of that bit. On the way to here, we 'hijacked' the coach and got it to stop at a minimarket so we could buy snacks - I had been saying I wanted an ice cream and then everyone else decided they also wanted one too! Anyway, back at the hotel now, smalls washed and drying and we're about to head off for dinner!"


Wednesday 11th September - Gubeiko to Jinshanlin:
"Excellent day today - an exhausting 8 hour trek. Just got back to the hotel (too cloudy to stop up on the wall for sunset shot as planned, but tbh I am glad as I am shattered!). I spent most of the day up front with the 'elite' team - 3 young lads who go at a cracking pace that was a real challenge to keep up with. They were so sweet, looking after me and saying how proud and impressed they were with me and I am jolly chuffed with how much I pushed myself. We had such a laugh, messing around with silly photos and having lots of banter and I am apparently an honorary lad now!"

"Today was also awesome because of the scenery - words truly can't describe it and the photos don't do the landscape justice - it was amazing seeing the wall speading out in all directions. Basically the scenery you think of when you think 'great wall'. I think today has been my favourite day so far because of the fun and the stunning views. A lot of variety of rough track, big steps, restored sections and crumbling old ruins. We also skirted around a military base so had to be careful with photos there.

"The food is great. I'm eating almost everything with chopsticks and I'm actually getting quite good! There are lots of different dishes each night - meat (I call it 'mystery meat') is hard to identify and the phrase has caught on! There are also lots of vegetable dishes, plus rice and noodles. Breakfast is porridge with jam (not chopstick compatible!) followed by eggs - good fuel for a day's walking! Our bathroom is rather basic here, and the pipe from upstairs drips sewage into our carefully placed waste bin! It's a good thing we've got a good sense of humour and strong stomachs! On that note, time for a quick shower before dinner, then we're having a demo of the Art of Chinese paper cutting!

"So tomorrow is supposed to be the ultimate 'great wall' views - similar to today but even better! About 5 hours trek then 2 hour coach to the hotel (which has a swimming pool!). The highlight of tomorrow is climbing the 'Oh My God' tower which apparently is a 100 step proper scramble (and I'm not sure all our party could actually do that, but we will see!)."


Thursday 12th September - Jinshanlin to Watchtower Panorama at Old Badalang:
"I'm sending this message just after lunch. We've on the coach to the hotel - (where there is a swimming pool!) - it should take about 2 hours to get there so I've got time to catch up on this update."

"It's been a totally awesome day for views and photo ops - high towers connecting strings of restored ancient wall disappearing over spiky mountain ridges in all directions. There's almost too much to photograph but hopefully I have captured some of it to give you a taste. Although it's not been a long day and not many really high climbs, it was still challenging because of the continuous up and down on steps - some very low, some crazily high, some broken, with the highlight being the 103 step scramble up to 'Oh My God' tower. (seriously that is it's name, not just what we called it!) I didn't find today too hard but it was definitely an elongated HIIT workout so I am anticipating having 'buns of steel'!"

"Well, we've just arrived at the hotel and it is so nice to be in better accommodation! It's positive luxury compared to what we've had lately! The room comes complete with gas masks (???) and even condoms! The hotel's a bit outside Beijing so we're well located for the final trek near Badaling tomorrow - we've just got one night here then we transfer to Beijing Holiday Inn tomorrow for the final 2 nights."


Friday 13th September - Old Badalang to Beijing:
"We did it! We have finished our epic challenge - 6 days and 50 miles (not entirely sure of the exact figure here but whose counting?!) along The Great Wall of China. Today's walk went to the highest point of our trek although it wasn't the biggest actual climb as we started from a higher point. All today's walking was on restored walls so lots and lots and lots of steps and steep slopes on paving slabs."

"There was 'Celebratory Champagne' for the team at the top. It wasn't a long trek today as we needed to try and beat the gridlock rush hour traffic into Beijing whilst also having time to enjoy our one and a half hour massage (well earned I think!). It was hilarious in the spa. There were 12 of us in our room, each of us having our shoulders, then heads, then back, legs and finally our feet given a thorough pummelling. Every so often someone would yelp or squirm because the masseurs were pretty hard with lots of pressure!

"Just returned from an awesome celebratory meal at a Peking Duck Restaurant. Amazing food!"


Saturday 14th September - Free Day sightseeing in Beijing:
"Great day sight seeing although possibly more tiring than the wall trek! We visited a silk factory first of all which was very interesting but big sales pressure. Then the forbidden palace which was beautiful, massive and fairly crowded. Very warm and sunny walking around there so we grabbed an icecream before heading off to a tea tasting house. Yes, I did actually taste the 5 teas on offer and no, I still do not like tea!"

"After that we went to the fake market - 6 floors bizarrely ranging from souveniers and tat to high class pearls and jade. Some normal shops and some real market stalls with haggling and sales pressure. I helped a friend bag a £35 top for £9 but the highlight for me was a shop selling japanese cartoon themed stuff where I got some cheap cute cat merchandise! Finally we went to a kung fu display which was a wonderful spectacle - theatrical and athletic. We are about to head out for a pizza now, then an early night as I think we have to leave the hotel around 4am tomorrow morning to get to the airport on time!"


Sunday 15th September - Beijing to London:
"A good but exhausting flight home! I've been up since 3am China time. Very confused as to whether it is Saturday or Sunday, but glad to be back in the UK!"



How to donate

For this challenge, Kate has raised considerably over £6,000 for The Alzheimer’s Society. You can help increase this amazing figure by donating - any amount is gratefully received

On Line:
Visit Kate's Just Giving site - Kate’s 50th Birthday Charity Trek
www.justgiving.com/fundraising/kate-coldham

By Post:

Send a cheque c/o ArtWorks, 16 Chapel Square, Aberdyfi, LL35 0EL
(please make cheques payable to ‘K Coldham’)

In Person:

Put some change in our charity box at the ArtWorks Gallery in Aberdyfi next time you visit.

All donations will be included in the Just Giving site total

Thank you for your support!



Alzheimer's Society


To find out more about the tremendous work done by the Alzheimer's Society click here

Alzheimer's Society


To follow Kate's fund raising progress and see updates on her training click here

Alzheimer's Society


In memory of Ann Coldham - to read more about my personal connection to Alzheimer's click here



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